![]() ![]() High enough that the red led is on but it wont cycle a new charge. Was not completely full charge when I attempted both switches but it was damn near. I wish I had done more research on modlite before taking the plunge.Īlso I have the newer red 18650. I thought surefire was the best of the best. The most robust pocket clip ever offered by SUREFIRE. Heavy duty aluminum housing can be used as an impact weapon. I'm going to try some of the fixes people posted here later and report back. Separate switching (twist the tail cap) for constant on. Unfortunately it gave me the same exact issue. Kudos for that honestly, was very easy to obtain and they shipped it very quickly. Then sent me out a "one time complimentary replacement" switch and tail cap. I contacted surefire support, they said it sounded like a defective switch. When I use the switch, it seems like it drops atleast 500 lumens on momentary, and maybe even 750 with constant on (also adds a heavy yellow hue). The light itself functioned flawlessly with the standard click cap. I just recently purchased a M600DF and then the UE-SR07 switch setup a few weeks later. Then, when everyone gets into modlite they do the bait and switch and pull the mod button out and say yeah those SF tape switches aren’t actually going to give you all the lumens like ours will. But they marketed them as being compatible with ALL your existing scout gear. The Tailcap fits Surefire E-Series Bodies as well as Modlite 18650/18350 and Arisaka M300/600 Bodies. It also uses a forward clicking McClicky switch for momentary and constant on operation. It features a recessed shroud which helps to prevent accidental activation. I’m sure modlite knew when they came out with their lights that your not going to get the same output from the SF tape switch as you would with the clicky tailcap. The Modlite E-Series Tailcap Switch is Black HA Type III Anodized. I’m sure if most people realized that the switch you used for your old scout won’t give you the output the DF is rated for and they would have to upgrade everything all over again they would probably hesitate to buy so many. It’s probably why they are so behind on the latest output technology because their scout line was supposed to be so modular, like legos. Like I said, I’m not saying there’s no difference in your switches but if you can’t tell with the naked eye then I think that’s all surefire was worried about. If your not measuring the same spot every time your going to get different readings. When measuring the lux your measuring the brightest hottest spot somewhere in the center of the hot spot. Maybe you can see the difference, I don’t know. I kinda figured that’s what you were getting at but my point is I don’t know how much I would trust this app at all if your not at least close to what the light is actually rated for. ![]()
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